Guess I Need a Bullwhip
I have a startling piece of news. Publisher’s Weekly gave my cookbook a review which was predictably obtuse yet more or less fair. This is a far cry from the dishonest review they gave the spam book. My guess? Someone over there has finally gotten some badly-needed fiber.
Rather than quote, I’ll print the entire review and let them threaten to sue me. Which is not too likely. They’ll probably be thrilled that someone has heard of Publisher’s Weekly and is willing to mention it.
Nostalgic for a time when kitchen counters had a container marked “grease” right next to “flour” and “sugar,” author and blogger Graham (Keep Chewing Till It Stops Kicking) offers up a rambling, tongue-in-cheek, plaque-in-artery collection of recipes and essays for those dedicated to the “Art of Lard.” Graham delights in slaughtering sacred cows with his acerbic, at times wildly inappropriate humor, but also gets a terrific amount of glee from simple bacon grease, a key ingredient in ribs, chicken fried steak, hash browns and even popcorn. Predictably dense takes on macaroni and cheese, burgers and fries dominate, though more exotic fare like Turducken and Rotis with Goat Curry are also detailed. Graham’s glib instructions can frustrate; for fatty (but incredibly flavorful) twice-baked fries, “you get your fat, and you put it in a big pot, and you put it in the oven at 250 for like a day. Then you throw out the lumps that remain,” before you add potatoes for frying. Most of his dishes, however, fall within the capabilities of kitchen novices, and he peppers sound advice throughout on everything from the proper use of ham hocks to the care of cast iron skillets. Unfortunately, his wildly uneven tone and pointless digressions kill any sense of momentum, making this a comedic smorgasbord best consumed in moderation.
Let’s see. “Wildly inappropriate humor.” Here is a question for liberals everywhere. And I warn liberals in advance: there is no answer that will not make you look stupid. Liberals always tell us that in the arts, anything goes. A Christ figurine soaking in urine is art. A photo of a man with a bullwhip in his rectum is art. And we are told that any criticism of art based on good taste is simply wrong. Okay. Humor is an art. That is beyond dispute. So why do liberals constantly tell us the things humorists and comedians joke about are “inappropriate”?
The only correct response is “hypocrisy.”
I wonder what they would have thought of the original version of the book, which I bowdlerized heavily for the big-time-publisher edition. It was mean to parody Hunter Thompson so soon after his death. Is that what they’re moaning about? I wanted to take that chapter out, but I made the decision too late. In any event, it’s nothing like as tasteless as Thompson’s own work. I wonder if they would refer to his humor as “wildly inappropriate.” Doubtful, since so much of it was directed at traditional liberal targets like decency, sobriety, chastity, and civility.
As for their complaint that the instructions for rendering fat are too hard to follow, my only response is “say what?” You put fat in a pot. You bake it at 250 degrees. You throw out the solids after the fat melts. What part of this is confusing? Seriously, readers of this blog, tell me where the difficulty is.
The truth is, there are some places in the book where the instructions are not really adequate. But this isn’t one of them. So why mention it in a review?
“Pointless digressions,” they say. Is absolutely everyone in publishing completely dense? The first time I showed this book to an agent, she said it would be great if only I removed the “off-topic banter.” Hello? The off-topic banter is the whole point of the book. If anything, it’s the recipes that are superfluous.
Whenever I remember the “off-topic banter” comment, I mention something it brings to mind, i.e., the Arab theater owner who showed The Sound of Music and, feeling it ran too long, edited out the songs. Without the songs, it’s just a B movie about a flat-chested babysitter who falls in love with her boss.
For a long time now, I have worried that a big percentage of the human race is simply too dumb to understand my writing. And reviews like this only reinforce my anxiety. I almost wish I could be like Dan Brown, who is–sorry to be blunt–fairly dumb. He’s dumb, therefore he has no problems writing for the dumb. It’s easy for him to figure out what the dumb will like, but for a bright person, it’s very hard. It’s like trying to guess which bad smell a dog would most like to roll in.
I don’t even understand the “momentum” comment. Why would momentum be desirable in a book of essays? The whole point of a book of essays is to present different topics one at a time. You may have noticed that I didn’t call it “The Story of Eat What You Want and Die Like a Man.” That’s because it’s not a story. The chapters are unrelated. Does The Joy of Cooking have momentum? I’ll have to check. It’s a really bad cookbook; maybe the momentum makes up for it.
Seriously, if you’re thinking of buying The Joy of Cooking, don’t. I mean, okay, do, but understand that you will have to correct a lot of the recipes. Their brownie recipe actually produces chocolate cake. If you’re a good cook, you can use The Joy of Cooking to get a general idea of how certain dishes work, but unless your experience is a lot different from mine, following their recipes to the letter will give you pretty lousy food.
Where is this reviewer’s brain? I parodied what, maybe ten writers and celebrities? How many humorists can do that? I did Al Franken, Bill O’Reilly, Christopher Walken, Frank McCourt…even William S. Burroughs. They didn’t even notice. You know what? Dave Barry can’t do that. P.J. O’Rourke can’t do it. Almost nobody can do it. Couldn’t they have said, “Wow, he’s a fat Republican with guns, but he sure knows his parody”?
You want to know the difference between the devil and a Republican in the arts? People give the devil his due.
I guess it doesn’t sound like I’m thrilled with the review, but compared to the last one, it’s a gem. They almost admitted I’m funny. Coming from people with no sense of humor whatsoever, that’s a real gift.