Pizza: not a Food; a Calling
January 18th, 2010Errand Turns up Cheese & Pan
I’ll be working on pizza storage today. I just got back from Gordon Food Service. Horror of horrors: they were out of Super Dolce sauce. I got a can of Saporito, in case the change was permanent. Saporito is very good; I just like Super Dolce a little better.
I looked around for steel pans for Sicilian pizza. I found a couple on Ebay, and I made an offer. It looks like the gold standard is a cold-rolled steel pan with a wire that runs around the perimeter under the lip for reinforcement. They’re expensive on the web, but Ebay has them much lower. While I was at GFS, I noticed they had steel cookie sheets for seven bucks, so I picked one up.
It seems like it’s a bad idea to wash anything that goes in the oven with a pizza. I don’t wash my screens. It would make them stick. I’m going to season the steel pans and leave it at that. I’ve seen steel Sicilian pans in pizzerias, and they’re never washed. Right now I have the GFS pan in the oven with olive oil. It looks like it may be stainless, in which case I am not sure seasoning it is possible.
I was annoyed to see that light olive oil is no bargain. I hit a grocery on the way home, and their price was $8.25 for 25 ounces. You would think extra virgin would cost more. GFS has a 50/50 blend of olive oil and some other oil. It’s cheap, and it’s probably a great choice, since street pizzerias use cheap ingredients. I’m thinking the smart move is good oil for the rolls and bad oil for the pizza.
GFS didn’t have loaves or bags of provolone. I picked up some slices. I’ll see how it blends with Costco cheese. No store I went to today had any interesting cheese. I can always hit Laurenzo’s market the next time I’m in the north end of town.
Mike and I should open a pizzeria. Seriously. Find a tiny store in a good location near South Miami and start baking. We’d be rich in five years. There is still no really good pizza here. An okay place opened near me a while back, but the location stinks, and we would be a lot better than an okay place. And we could put my cheesecake on the menu. Fat women would stampede the store like enraged buffalo.
GFS has Gold Medal “All Trumps” flour for $22.50/50 pounds. Not all that cheap, really. If I bought ten five-pound bags at the grocery, it would be 50% more expensive, so it’s not nearly as impressive as GFS’s other buys. I still want to try it, though. I’m incorrigible. They also had a brand called “Golden Tiger,” slightly cheaper. Can it be that the Chinese are expanding from tools to flour? It’s probably really good, until the lead and melamine kill you.
I ran by Whole Foods Market because I read that they sell sourdough starter. No dice. I looked for other stuff, such as cheese that might be useful. I think the cheapest cheese I saw was $11.99 per pound. Nothing in that store interests me. I think you have to be a complete moron to shop there. I couldn’t find anything I wanted. Not even an impulse buy. Every so often, when I want something unusual, it turns out they have it, but shopping there on a daily basis is like emptying your wallet directly into the toilet.
Super-organic natural food usually tastes funky. Am I the only one who notices? The store smells “off.” The beverages always have an odd aftertaste. The faux junk food tastes like real junk food that has a disease. The peanut butter is like sand and Crisco. The only good stuff is the normal food, like croissants and fresh seafood and so on. But why would you go to Whole Foods and pay twice as much, if it’s something you can get at a real grocery for less?
Am I too excited about good, cheap food? I can’t help myself. I’ll spend a hundred bucks learning how to make a two-dollar pizza.
Here’s a great Youtube find:
I’ve never seen pizza with cheese under the sauce, but I’m sure it’s great. This joint is in New Jersey, so if the pizza wasn’t good, they would be out of business. It’s not like Miami, where bad pizza can put your kids through college.
Here’s another good one:
Didn’t they both refer to San Marzano tomatoes? I should check those out.
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From the Stanislaus Foods website:
ALTA CUCINA® “NATURALE” STYLE PLUM TOMATOES
The closest thing to Old Italy in America! Favored by restaurateurs serving the classical dishes of Italy’s urban “ristoranti,” Alta Cucina® “Naturale” Style Plum Tomatoes are Stanislaus’ answer to true San Marzanos, which are no longer available except at exorbitant prices.
Today, true San Marzanos are generally unavailable because small Italian farmers have consolidated and turned to mechanized commercial tomato varieties rather than the hand-harvested San Marzano. Although lax enforcement has allowed some Italian packers to get away with mislabeling tomatoes as “San Marzano” (when in fact they are not), in truth, the treasured San Marzano tomato has all but disappeared.
And that’s why we created Alta Cucina® “Naturale” Style Plum Tomatoes! Each can of Alta Cucina® is full to the brim with sweet, tender, ultra-premium plum tomatoes in “Naturale” style juice—packed from select tomato varieties chosen by Stanislaus for their fresh fragrance, exquisite flavor, and delicate “melt-in-your-mouth” texture.
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Here’s a place that sells steel Sicilian pizza pans: CLICK.
January 18th, 2010 at 3:18 PM
Uh, I worked at three different pizza ‘straunts for a total of eight years, and I can assure you that everything was washed. Between every use.
-XC
January 18th, 2010 at 3:44 PM
If they’re washing non-stainless, seasoned steel pans, how are they maintaining the seasoning?
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The place I used to go to when I lived in New York never washed any of the pans. The best place near me doesn’t use pans, but they don’t wash their screens. Neither does Mike. Neither do I. The pans in both of these videos are seasoned and appear to be steel.
January 18th, 2010 at 8:53 PM
Steve – If they’re not washing the pans then the health guys are being paid to look the other way. Which is certainly possible,
But they are washing the pans. In fact, they are scrubbing the crap out of them.
PAM. Or whatever spaceage krep they use.
Everything in a volume kitchen gets washed.
-XC
January 18th, 2010 at 9:30 PM
The pizza joint I worked at never used pans. The pizza was built on the wood peel and slid directly onto the stone in the oven and sauce was always the last thing spooned onto the pie.
The owner always mixed the sauce on monday before I got there so I never knew his recipe. We used this sauce all week and I’ll tell you by Friday that sauce was so good you would have laddled out a cup of it to drink that how much better it tasted with “age”.
January 19th, 2010 at 12:02 AM
Why buy sourdough starter? Proof some yeast with a heaping tablespoon of flour and sugar. Leave it loosely covered for a week, presto Sourdough ala-Steve. I proof mine in a large glass tumbler, and slip a baggie over the tumbler. Restart the starter every time you use it ( a tablespoon of starter, flour, sugar). I used to add wheat berries to my dough. Boil them first, probably for 15 minutes. Cool them down so they don’t kill your starter.
Of course I tend to go overboard on adding in stuff.
Then you could start reading about diastatic malt…
Then it will be Steve -n- Mike Micro-Brew-Pizza.
After all, what is beer but liquid bread, and pizza is bread all dressed up.
January 19th, 2010 at 8:26 AM
The New York pizzeria I mentioned did not scrub the pans. I saw how they treated them, and apart from that, they could not have developed black, seasoned, non-stick surfaces if they were scrubbed like ordinary dishes. I get sticking problems with cast iron if I do anything beyond wiping with a paper towel.
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The Miami place does not wash its screens.
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I would be surprised if a health department took notice of seasoned pans used in ovens that go over 500 degrees. A seasoned pan holds no food residue apart from a light film of fat. If the health people cared about things like that, it would be impossible to use any seasoned iron in a restaurant, and restaurants use seasoned iron all the time. It would be like requiring chefs to put their grilling surfaces through dishwashers.
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In any case, I’m not going to wash my pans or screens. There is no possibility of food poisoning, and it would ruin them.
January 19th, 2010 at 11:39 AM
A stupid woman once told my sister that the reason she had stomach problems was because she, my sister that is, didn’t wash her iron skillets with detergent….
January 19th, 2010 at 1:30 PM
About Whole Food, I always say to my friends, ” I wish I could afford to shop at whole foods… I wouldn’t if I could but it’d be nice to have that much money…”
January 20th, 2010 at 4:05 AM
It’s widely known that San Marzano tomatoes(Ideally, DOP – “Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta”, tomatoes grown in the San Marzano region in Italy) make the best sauce. Mike Colameco, did a whole episode on DOP San Marzanos on his show a coupla seasons ago.