Right?

First things first.

Mish Weiss is feeling very weak because they are giving her increased radiation and chemotherapy, in preparation for her second bone marrow transplant. I wrote about this a few days ago. When Mish was in her teens, she gave a daughter up for adoption, and now that daughter insists on donating marrow. Please pray that Mish will be strengthened, and that the transplant will cure her leukemia.

I posted a prayer request about my cousin, who has been diagnosed with 4th-stage lung cancer. People wanted a name. I didn’t put it up at first, because I had concerns about revealing details of her life. But what I have written is pretty spare, so I guess it’s okay. Her name is Debbie. Thanks for helping. I need recommendations for soothing and uplifting Christian music to put in the MP3 player my sister and I bought for her.

I could use a little prayer myself. I have been having real trouble getting back to my routine of retiring and rising early, so I can give the first hour or so of the day to God. Things keep coming up, disrupting my schedule. Any help would be appreciated.

Some people say it doesn’t matter when you pray, but I think that’s wrong. The Bible is full of references to rising early, and the fifth psalm says, “My voice shalt thou hear in the morning, O Lord; in the morning will I direct my prayer unto thee and will look up.” The sixty-third psalm says, “O God, thou are my god. Early will I seek thee.” I think beginning the day with God is like prenatal care; it puts a good foundation under things. And it gives you a jump on your enemies. It’s a little like rolling up your car windows and locking your doors before you drive through a rough neighborhood.

This is an exciting day, by my peculiar standards. The new lathe motor should arrive soon, and I am just about ready to hook it up. The VFD is mounted on the lathe headstock. All I have to do is put the lathe in, attach the belt, and run some wires. It should run like a dream, with that shiny new Baldor.

On Monday I made a plate to hold the VFD, but I was not happy with it, because the paint I bought for it turned out to be so shiny you could actually mistake a painted surface for bare aluminum. I decided to get out my old standby: black truck bed paint. I used my bench grinder to fine-tune the plate so it would fit around the drum switch bracket on the back of the headstock, I scraped the paint away from the bolt holes to assure a good ground connection between the VFD and the lathe, and I sprayed it down. It looks okay, but I am wondering if I now have to worry about heat. The old paint was thin and conducted heat well. This new stuff is a layer of plastic, and the VFD heat sink is pressed right into it. Hopefully the fan and sink included with the VFD are sufficient. Otherwise I’m going to go get a piece of aluminum and make a new plate from that. It will conduct both heat and electricity, and it’s easy to work. I still have to attach conduit and so on, and that means drilling holes. Not fun, in a hard piece of sheet steel.

The old wiring was protected by some strange kind of smooth-surfaced flex conduit. I don’t know what it is. Maybe all plastic flex conduit looks like this. I never use it. How would I know? I don’t have anything like that, and I don’t want to buy a whole box just for this. I guess I’ll use the same metallic flex conduit I used for the compressor.

The lathe has a big push-button switch way down on one pillar (or whatever you call the two parts that make up the cabinet). I assume it’s supposed to be some sort of safety shutoff. It looks awful, and it doesn’t seem to do anything, and it’s in a bad spot. I think I’ll yank it and put it in the trash. I have an emergency disconnect on the wall already. I think the disconnect is probably useless. By the time you get to it, whatever will happen has happened. The VFD’s braking is probably a better answer. It’s too bad this machine has no mechanical brake.

I have been watching my Lathe Learnin’ DVDs. A day or two ago, I learned something interesting. You don’t always have to use a big 4-jaw chuck to get optimal accuracy. You can put a small 4-jaw chuck in your existing 3-jaw chuck. Pretty wild. I’m considering getting a relatively cheap 4-jaw chuck for this purpose. Even if I get a bigger one later, this would be very quick and easy, and it would probably hold 95% of the things I’ll want to work on.

I learned something good last night. You can use a milling machine to do layout. You ink your part, put it in your vise, and use edgefinders or whatever to get you situated. Then you use your DRO or handwheels to put marks where you need them. To make the marks, you put a drill chuck in the mill, and you insert a spring-loaded scribe. You lower the point to the work and move the table to make the scratches.

Clearly, this would justify me spending fifteen thousand dollars on a new Bridgeport.

Maybe not.

But it’s still neat.

The guy from Swarfrat says you can do layout on a PC, print it out, and glue the paper to your work using 3M somthing or other 77 spray adhesive. He says it will be accurate to within a thousandth. His videos are excellent. I feel guilty about renting them, even though it’s legal. I’m planning to buy some of his materials, to support what he does.

I have been trying to choose drill bits. Believe it or not, this is complicated. Apparently, there are about 115 bits in a complete 1/16″-1/2″ set. Some sets have 114 or 118, but 115 is the number I keep seeing. And you have to make a lot of choices.

First off, you have to choose the length. I think I’m going to get short screw machine (or “stub”) bits. They take up less room on your machines, and they’re rigid, and they are more than long enough for most jobs. But you can also get mechanic’s length (longer) or jobber length (longer still). What is a “jobber”? No idea.

Second, you have to choose the material. Cobalt is expensive, but it lasts longer than high speed steel, and you can cut harder stuff with it. You can sharpen it on a plain old grinder. But the gaps between the flutes are smaller, so it may not clear chips as well. High speed steel is cheap and good, but it will get dull quickly if you drill anything hard.

On top of that, there are different finishes. I bought some Hitachi bits coated with titanium nitride (TiN), and as far as I can tell, the finish is completely worthless. The drills dull almost instantly when used on hard metal. But others assure me that quality TiN-coated bits are more slippery than HSS, and that you can run them faster, and that TiN resists wear. I don’t see how it can resist wear once you’ve used the drill, because the finish comes off the tip in a hurry, and the tip is where the action is. But people pay for it, so there must be a reason for it. I wouldn’t buy it again. It may well be that my Hitachi bits are actually Chinese, so I would not judge TiN by their performance.

Third, there are different tip styles. You can get them in 118-degree or 135-degree styles, and you can get split points. I’ve seen photos of these, and I didn’t see anything that looked like a split, but okay, whatever. They’re supposed to walk less when you start holes.

Once you get past all that, you have to make a decision on how to sharpen them. The old-fashioned way is to use a grinder and a little gauge and eyeball them. I am trying to get out of the habit of doing things the hard way, so I considered getting a sharpening machine instead. The only one available at a price I am willing to pay is the Drill Doctor. Is it a good machine? It’s fantastic. Or it’s complete garbage. Everyone you ask tells a different story. Aargh. I guess the smart thing is to get a gauge and see what happens. I’ve sharpened drills in the past, but that was out of laziness and desperation, and I had no idea what I was doing. I don’t know if I want to keep doing it without a special tool.

Can you believe how hard it is to buy drill bits? I never imagined. And what if I need different lengths later on? I’ll have to repeat the entire expense.

I got a cobalt bit the other day, and I am really impressed. It seemed completely unintimidated by the steel plate I drilled. Maybe that just shows how sad my other bits are. I’m considering splurging on a set of US-made cobalt bits. Hard to decide. It’s about $100 for HSS and $300 for cobalt. Lots of money, either way.

The grinder is also a headache. It’s a wonderful machine; a 6″ Baldor that runs at 1800 RPM. But the wheels it came with are apparently intended to be a practical joke. They’re 36 and 60 grit, in silicon carbide. Not much good for anything other than shaping metal and sharpening coarse tools like hoes. I have to get aluminum oxide in 80 grit, and of course, most wheels fitting that description don’t fit my arbors. Enco’s wheel page says to use their “universal arbor adapter,” which is NOT IN THE CATALOG. However I’m pretty sure the items they sell under the heading “bushings” are actually adapters, so I’m buying one, as well as a wheel. A real man would turn an adapter in his lathe! Where are the real men when you need them?

I’ll need the grinder when I want to make HSS lathe tools. How do you do that? Well, you buy a $5000 milling machine and a face shield, remove the eye shields from your grinder, remove the highly risible tool supports, make a fancy-shmancy adjustable tool table that goes in front of the wheels (including an adjustable protractor), and you check the material you’re working, and you refer to a giant chart of appropriate angles, and you grind your tool. OR you stand in front of a bare grinder wheel and ram the blank into it, and you make every single angle either 10 or 15 degrees. The first method is the Rudy Kouhoupt method (from his DVD), and the second one is the Lathe Learnin’ method. The guy in the Lathe Learnin’ video says his tools work just fine for him. If he can get away with it, I guess I should try it, too. I really don’t want to turn this into precision machining if I don’t have to. I don’t want to turn the tool into the workpiece.

I think the more you study this stuff, the harder your life gets. If you just plug your machine in and get to work, you probably learn all the things you need to know reasonably fast, and I’m sure a lot of the things I’m learning have more to do with anal retention than practicality.

This is the story of my day so far.