Big Globs of Bubbly Metal
January 29th, 2009Saw Base Developing
My adventures in welding continue.
I cut more parts for the saw base, and I managed to get a fair amount of the crud off of them, and I got out the bench grinder and made everything as nice as I could. Then I did some practice welds, resulting in a beautiful sculpture. And I lined up the base parts, fired up the welder, and welded.
Without gas.
I guess when you turn off the gas, enough remains in the system to let you do a few welds. I checked the regulator gauge before I started, and I saw pressure. But during the first weld that counted, the gas ran out, and I got some very interesting results.
I turned on the gas, started up again, ruined a contact tip, and so on. Eventually I realized I should rely on the pictures on the little chart on the welder door, instead of the numbers, which are apparently wrong. And I managed to weld three corners of the base fairly well. The one I screwed up will work. I did extra welding on it, and I did some grinding. Hey, it just has to stay together. It’s not going to have all that much force on the part I screwed up.
I found out I weld better with +2.5 reading glasses under the helmet, because I’m so close to the work. But my biggest problem is smoke. I don’t understand why clean metal would smoke, but it’s happening, and I can’t see the welds very well. I have to stop and start. I hope I’m using the right wire. Surely it’s not flux burning.
I can’t say I’m totally pleased, but the base will work. Tomorrow I can get casters, and then I’ll be able to take measurements and weld on the tabs the casters attach to.
Maybe I’ll make another base, just for the practice. I need it. I swear, I’m going to start driving around looking for metal in trash piles.
I can’t believe there are people who seriously suggest using hydrochloric acid for rust removal. What a farce. I suppose I could get naval jelly next time. Or Ospho. Cleaning the metal is the worst part of this job. A reader suggests electrolysis.
I have to get this finished. I watched Mark Duginske’s bandsaw book, and I’m dying to use my bandsaw, but I can’t use it without the base. The cord won’t reach the new 220 outlet.
Geez, After I do the welding, I have to get this thing cleaned up and paint it. It never ends. Now I have something to do with my surplus grill paint.
I think I want to make a mouse table. I compute from a recliner, with a little table on my right for the mouse. The table I use is okay, but I could make a better one, and it’s a good small project. After a box.
Do I have any hope of drilling 3/8″ holes in mild steel with a hand drill? I never used to worry about things like this. I just picked up the tools and tried. I have to have holes for the casters.
I will succeed eventually. You just watch.
January 29th, 2009 at 6:42 PM
“3/8″ holes with a hand drill.”
You better have a big hand drill and go easy on the feed rate with a nice sharp new bit or that sucker will twist your arm off as it counter rotates and jerks the power cord out of the socket.
I suggest drilling a progression of larger and larger pilot holes–starting with like 1/8″, then 1/4″, the 5/16″ then ending up with 3/8″ and being prepared for the bit to “bite” on one corner and sen the drill spinning. With things larger than 1/4″ it best to have a heavy duty drill with slow speed and a extra pipe handle opposite the pistol grip to help keep things in control.
Then there’s always the milling machine…
January 29th, 2009 at 8:41 PM
Pin punch where you want the holes. Drill pilot holes with say a 1/8″ bit. Then the 3/8″ drill. The web on a drill bit is like a spinning chisel. By drilling a small pilot hole first (small web) you make a hole that the larger drills web doesn’t have to plow through.
Congrats on the welding
January 29th, 2009 at 10:29 PM
use lotsa oil…
January 29th, 2009 at 11:54 PM
“I have to have holes for the casters.”
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What about welding on a steel tube that is sized to accept the caster pin?
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Seems like cutting tube and welding may be easier than the hole drilling.
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Oh, and have we given up on the Mill? I was really curious to see what Harley Head Design you were gonna come up with…
January 30th, 2009 at 12:03 AM
Previous Comment…
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Sorry, I just drove back from Detroit in a snow storm and it’s late…I’m obviously not running on all cylinders.
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I just read your “200 Pound…” Post about the Millrite.
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‘Nuff said.
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Are you going to “CAD up” a Harley Head Design or just draw it out on paper before you mill it?
January 30th, 2009 at 2:13 AM
You could always be an inexperienced apprentice plumber. The guy on the job who is always sent to drill those 1 1/2 inch holes in floor joists with a right-angle drill while standing on the top rung of a six foot step ladder. Getting slapped in the face by your tools takes on a new meaning.
Just saying.
January 30th, 2009 at 8:51 AM
Like they said about the drilling. Should be fine.
z
I didn’t ask before cause I didn’t want to look dumm, but why are you trying to get all the rust off? The rust at the welding site I can see, but the rest should take rustoleum pretty readilly.
January 30th, 2009 at 9:12 AM
Don’t you have a plasma cutter? Wouldn’t it be easy to burn a 3/8″ hole?
January 30th, 2009 at 10:37 AM
I drill 1/2″ holes all the time with a hand drill. And I don’t use a pilot, I use split point drills. A magnum Hole shooter works well on this. Yes, you have to be paying attention as Virgil says, it will torque your arm pretty well. And as Ed says, if you don’t have split point drills a pilot hole will help a lot.
January 30th, 2009 at 9:34 PM
You do know that they make a flux-core wire for your welder so you don’t need gas?
It’s more expensive, but it works well. It would be worth your while to keep a spool around in case you get caught with and empty gas bottle on the weekend…
MC
January 30th, 2009 at 11:43 PM
This is why you need a drill press before you get your mill. Even a small cheap drill press would make your 3/8″ hole in a jiffy. I used mine last week to drill a 5/8″ hole through a solid 2″ trailer ball mount.
January 31st, 2009 at 8:59 AM
A mill will also drill big holes in thick metal.
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As for flux-cored wire, you’ll notice I referred to it in this post. The welder came with a roll.