Ornamental Cast Iron Furniture Turns Out to be Useful

January 6th, 2009

Router Extension Ready

This is beyond amazing. I used my Powermatic 66.

After I got the splitter installed, I realized I had no choice but to go ahead with the router insert plan. I took apart my old computer desk and made sure there was no metal left in it. I made myself a featherboard. I realized I had no way to anchor the featherboard. I put the featherboard away. Then I sawed up the desktop.

Believe it or not, it is possible to cut a sheet of particle board five feet long and two and a half feet long, on a table saw with rails but no extension. The long cuts are easier, because you have less board hanging out over the empty space where the extension should be, but even the short cut is doable.

I remembered some of the stuff from Kelly Mehler’s video. Stand at the left rear corner of the sheet. Hmm…maybe that’s all I remembered. I tried his trick of using sawhorses as an outfeed table, but it was a colossal failure. I believe the problem is that the sawhorse brackets I bought are total garbage. The sawhorses refuse to stay open, and when you pry the legs apart, the brackets bend and give way. Useless. I should complain to Home Depot. I thought these things were a better deal than the premade plastic sawhorses, but I was severely wrong. I am going to buy some of those things even if they cost thirty bucks each. You really have to picture me, walking around the saw while the sawhorse folds up, trying to keep the desktop against the fence while preventing it from falling on the floor.

I did a practice short cut, which was perfect. Then I moved the fence and did the real cut, which was less than perfect. Doesn’t matter. I screwed up pretty badly, and the error is still probably less than a sixteenth. Who cares?

That Biesemeyer fence is really something. Old and beat-up as it is, it still seems to lock up completely squarely.

I have to mount some two-by-threes under the desktop so I’ll be able to attach it to the rails. After that, I’ll be sitting pretty. I’ll pop the router in and add some sort of adjustable support leg. Bang. Done. That will put me in a position to use the saw and router to make a real cabinet and extension. I didn’t realize how long the extension was; I should be able to create a very serviceable woodworking bench from it. It’s not the ideal workbench, but given my space problems, it will be a lifesaver.

The saw isn’t loud at all. I don’t know why I bother wearing ear protection. But the dust! It shoots straight up under my protective glasses. I guess I need goggles.

I tried a different blade. I’m not sure which one to use. It turns out I have more blades than I thought. Something like two dozen. I decided to try one that looked more “woody” than the others.

The splitter is wonderful. Kelly Mehler says to put them to the right of the blade, so they moosh the wood against the fence, and boy, is he right. It makes it a lot harder to slop the wood to the left. The flexibility of the splitter assures that the wood will fit between the fence and splitter, so that’s not an issue.

This is beautiful. This is a little piece of what I was hoping for when I bought tools. I had a whole bunch of problems today, and tools solved them. Tools really work, if you buy enough of them and make an effort to learn how to use them.

Think of all the stuff I had to do to get this thing running. Take it apart. Load it by myself. Unload it by myself. Put it together. Change the plug. Align everything. Lubricate the trunnion. Build a mobile base. Alter the dust collection connection. Fabricate a splitter. And here I am, sawing stuff up with very good precision.

I hope I continue to have success. It helps to pray every single time you do anything even slightly difficult.

6 Responses to “Ornamental Cast Iron Furniture Turns Out to be Useful”

  1. Leo Says:

    There are a lot of free sawhorse plans on the web. Just a thought there. I don’t know anything about the plastic sawh¡orses you are talking about, but if you are going to use them to support your outfeed they need to be substantial enough not to move around easily.

    If you build your own, you can slip a piece of pvc pipe over the center board on the sawhorse which will go a long ways towards reducing friction.

    One last suggestion. When you build your own sawhorses, make them attractive and usable. Don’t ever think you can just “cobble” something together that will do the job. You can of course. But everyone who sees your sawhorses will judge your woodworking skill by how practical and attractive your sawhorses are.

  2. Ric Locke Says:

    Lee got in ahead of me, and he’s right.

    Everybody needs sawhorses, and the ones you can make with the cheap brackets are crap. I made mine using a handsaw and try-square, and seven years later they’re still going strong. You have a sliding miter saw…

    A good set of sawhorses isn’t a difficult project, but it has enough tricky bits to be interesting. The result isn’t cabinetry, it’s sawhorses, so a mistake here and there isn’t particularly ugly and doesn’t mean the result isn’t useful. Later on, when you have more skill, you can make better ones and relegate the originals to holding up trestle tables, which is about what the ones made with the brackets are good for.

    Regards,
    Ric

  3. Roland the Headless Thompson Gunner Says:

    That could be another project for you. An outfeed table. Space is an issue, so find or think of one that bolts to the back of the saw and folds down out of the way.

  4. Virgil Says:

    Get yourself a clear full face shield with an adjustable band “headclamp.” for use with the table saw. I have one and love it because it doesn’t fog up like goggles will in Miami and it gives you a wider field of view without having to crank your head around to see what’s going on around you.

    Regarding the sawhorse, with your power miter saw sitting there you really aught to make yourself one or more real sawhorses just for the “apprenticeship” experience of it. I know, I know—space issues…bolt them together with lag bolts instead of nailing.

    Or build something like this wooden knockdown set:

    http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip030815sn.html

    or this set designed to stack on top of each other:

    http://woodworking.about.com/od/shopequipmentsupplies/ss/woodSawhorses.htm

    Back in the day you judged a wood carpenter by the quality of his sawhorses and the big long open wooden tool box which was hand crafted (and full of HAND saws and a brace and bit) in a time before Craftsman started selling grey and red metal boxes and Stanley came out with their lightweight black and yellow plastic jobs on wheels.

    Build it out of wood…you’re an aspiring woodworker…next thing we know we’ll be seeing things like this on this blog:

    http://www.leevalley.com/newsletters/Woodworking/2/3/article1.htm

    http://www.geekologie.com/2007/11/21/wood-car-1.jpg

  5. Steve H. Says:

    I have a face shield, but I’m pretty sure the dust will fly up under it, even worse than it does with glasses.

  6. Ed Bonderenka Says:

    Try the face shield. Where your goggles underneath as a trial. It’s all I use, and with severe dry-eye, I’m very cautious about dust.
    I really do like the plastic sawhorses. I attach a two by four to the top so I can cut through sheets on them without harming them.
    They are lightweight, but a block on the lower shelf (the base of the triangle they form) handles that when necessary. And they get out of the way easy.

Leave a Reply; Comments are Moderated and Not All Are Posted. Keep it Clean.