This is Why You Buy Tools

March 9th, 2022

New Pizza Steel Almost Ready

This is a big day. I just made myself a pizza steel.

I realize it’s not likely anyone wants to read about it, but then I don’t blog for hits.

For years, I’ve used a stone I bought at Bed Bath & Beyond. I’m pretty sure that’s where I got it, anyway. It has been so long, I forgot.

It was much better than a pan, and it did a fantastic job of making the bottom of a Sicilian pizza crunchy, but I always felt my thin New York pies were A- pies, not A+ pies. Sicilian is easier to make than thin pizza. If you can stuff dough into an oily pan, and you can find good ingredients you should be able to make a good Sicilian. New York pies have to bake faster, and you have to have a good balance of heat on the bottom and top.

I was also using way too much yeast, and that hurt the flavor.

People on a pizza forum told me steels were all the rage. I was surprised, because I had tried a round Lodge cast iron pan, and I had given it away because the results were so bad.

When I looked at steels on the web, I saw they were selling for $120, which seemed ridiculous, given the price of steel plate. Eventually, I saw them selling for as little as $59, but that’s still a lot, and they weren’t the steels people recommended. Also, the steels I saw were small. Fourteen by fourteen or so.

Yesterday, I swung by the metal place, and I got me a 16″ square of 1/4″ hot-rolled. I got lucky and received a piece with nearly no rust. It hasn’t rained much here lately. Cost: $27.46.

Today I used a big Metabo angle grinder and a Walter cutting wheel to knock the corners off the steel. After that, I deburred it and knocked the rust off with a smaller grinder and a Walter flap wheel. Then I used the 2×72 grinder to round the corners. I deburred the corners with the smaller grinder, and I was ready to go.

I took it in the house, washed it in the kitchen sink, applied coconut oil, and stuck it in the oven, which is now running at 500°. My favorite seasoning fat is bacon grease, but I thought it would be fun to try coconut oil, since it’s essentially tree lard. Vegetable oil and peanut oil give off blue smoke and stink. Burning bacon grease just smells like food.

It looks beautiful. I can’t wait to try it.

Yesterday’s pie was great, but it was more done on the bottom than the top, and it was softer than I wanted. The crust was also sweeter than I liked. On advice from forum people, I am doing my next pie differently. I’m baking it higher in the oven, and I’m cutting the sugar by 40%. Moving the pie higher should help the top cook faster, and cutting the sugar should make it crunchier and let me cook it longer. Sugar speeds up crust browning.

I’m also making the pie with zero oil, except for an extremely thin film I put on the pan I’m using for proofing the dough. I like the flavor and consistency of oil-free dough. I have been using one teaspoon of olive oil in 180 grams of flour, which is not much. I use it because oil prevents the dough from drying out fast while you toss it, and this makes tearing less likely. My forum advisors claim I can do without the oil if the dough is fermented properly, so I’m doing a day-long fermentation in hopes of getting a tear-resistant dough. I can toss a dough that’s prone to tearing, but it’s always possible I’ll get one or more small holes that require repairs.

I’m going to try something like 4/2/2 provolone/mozzarella/white cheddar. I want cheese that’s a little more sour and less rubbery than 50/50 provolone and mozzarella.

I’m definitely picking nits. My pizzas are very good as they are.

I grabbed some bulk Italian sausage at Publix today. Tomorrow, I hope to soar.

4 Responses to “This is Why You Buy Tools”

  1. Brk Says:

    I’ve done pretty well with cast iron…but it has to be big. I have a couple of eighteen inchers that I use to make pizzas, exchanging the position halfway through (my 22 inches will not fit in my oven.) I think the trick is to have the cast iron as hot as you can get it, lay the dough in dry, and work fast. Eight minutes at 550. It’s the thermal reservoir that cooks the pizza, which is why a stone never made sense to me.

    In cast iron, anything less than eighteen inches and you might as well make a deep dish or a calzone. The proportions just aren’t right.

  2. Aaron's cc: Says:

    In 1987 or 1988 I went to a yard that sold steel to cover my stove top every Sabbath. (Can’t put uncooked food over fire on the Sabbath but rewarding already cooked food is permissible, as is leaving food on from before the Sabbath until it is removed when needed, such as a “chilent” stew for Saturday lunch.) Friends had gotten inexpensive thin aluminum which warped with 25 hours of fire on one or two burners. Had them bend a 3″ lip 90 degrees at one end to cover the knobs so they wouldn’t be easily adjusted. Had two made, one for most of the year and one for Passover. The Passover one gets a little rust as I leave it outside during the 51 weeks a year it isn’t Passover. 5 minutes of steel wool and 5 minutes on the burners and it’s as good as ever. I expect to be able to write them into my will as they’ll last forever.

    1/4″ would have been too thick and heavy for my needs. It’s probably 1/16″.

    I like the idea of a pizza steel and would clearly go the route of coconut oil vs lard.

  3. Steve H. Says:

    Cheese pizza can be kosher, so you have that going for you. Some put it down, but cheese pizza is the true test of a pizzaiolo.

    You just need to find decent kosher cheese, which should be doable.

  4. Steve H. Says:

    Brk, the friend I gave my cast iron pan to claims it works. He must do something I didn’t do.

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