…your Shooting Bench Costs Five Times as Much as Your Dinner Table

Work on the shooting bench is going very well.

Today I attacked the steel I bought yesterday. Most pieces had very little rust, and that was a rare blessing. I removed spots of rust from the shiny pieces, and I gave the rustier ones more effort. Then I started drilling holes.

This bench will have a nearly square upper frame with a crossmember bisecting it. When I put wood on it, the boards will lie across three pieces of steel tubing. Screws will pass through the tubing from the bottom, into the wood. That means there have to be lots of holes.

I used 2″ tubing, so I set my square to 1″ and used a carbide scribe to mark the centers of the tubes where I needed holes. I used a tape measure and a Sharpie to locate the holes along the lengths of the tubes. I used a punch to make dimples to guide my drills. I drilled through the tubes with a #35 bit, because I happen to have a whole package of them. I followed with a step bit, which opened the holes up to nearly 7/16″ and deburred them.

Using a pilot hole makes drilling go faster, because it gets rid of the hardest part of the hole to drill: the center. A drill’s flutes move very slowly near the center of a hole, so they don’t do much. It’s worse with big drills, because the flutes don’t go all the way to the center. If you drill the center out with a small drill, which has flutes that come much closer to the center of the hole, you get much higher RPM’s, you move fast, and you remove the metal which slows down bigger bits.

Once I had holes on one side of each tube, I was able to use the drill press to put holes in the other sides. I dropped oil through the existing holes, onto the areas where I was going to continue drilling. I used the existing holes as drill it guides. I ran a big drill bit through them, and the existing holes located the holes on the other side. When I was done, I deburred the new holes with the step bit.

I can’t say enough about step bits. Unless you’re drilling deep holes, they’re totally superior to ordinary bits. They cut much, much faster. You have to get good ones, though. Cheap ones just spin in place.

Once I was finished with the holes, I had to figure out how to weld a nearly 4-foot-square frame on a table measuring about two by three feet. I had to use all sorts of clamps, including wood clamps. You can weld metal with wood clamps. You just have to take them off before the pads melt!

Right now, enough of the capital B is tacked together to make an A, and one leg is tacked in place. Tomorrow, I plan to install the other legs, finish the welds, and get started on painting. I should be able to use the bench in about three days. Sooner, if I don’t insist on painting the wood first.

While I worked on the bench, I thought about my plan to upgrade my welding table. I don’t know if I want to deal with a project this big again on this small table, and a new table would be similar in size to this project.

I keep going back and forth: put my own table together for maybe $400, or buy one for around $1300?

If I were to build one, I would have to make somewhere close to 300 16mm holes in it, through 3/8″ steel. Every hole would take at least two minutes to drill. Ten hours of drilling? Seems like a lot.

If I were to buy one, I’d go for the 1/4″-thick Fabblock from Weldtables.com. The 3/8″ table is too expensive. So I would lose rigidity and durability.

Also, I would make a shopmade table bigger, since it would cost less. I would go for 36″ by 48″, whereas I was looking at a 36″ by 42″ Fabblock.

Welding tables have to be very flat, and welding makes things warp, so the pitfall to making my own table is obvious. Making welded objects flat is not easy. I would hate to spend a lot of money on metal and then end up with a bowl instead of a table.

As dilemmas go, this is a good one to have. I could be trying to choose between paying the rent and buying winter clothes.

I will put more photos up as I go. Can’t wait to put this table to work.