John Not-so-Dear

August 11th, 2019

I’m not the Only One who Deserves a Belt

It seems like every time I try to do a two-hour job on the farm, it turns into a ten-hour job.

This time it was the garden tractor. I wanted to mow the yard. I was putting along on the old John Deere 430 when the temperature light came on. Steam came out of the overflow hose. I stopped and Googled.

I read that you have to clean grass out of the radiator frequently. This was news to me. I cleaned the radiator as well as I could, added coolant, and took off. The tractor heated up again, and the battery light came on.

I started reading about all the things that could be screwed up. The thermostat. The head gasket. The water pump. Thermostats are cheap, but the other items are not, and replacing them would be hard.

My solution was to post questions on forums. I figured other people had run into the same problem. The answers I got were not useful.

Today I took the thermostat out. I assumed that if it had failed in the shut position, it would explain the heat problem. Running the tractor without a thermostat in August in Ocala wouldn’t be a terrible thing, because the tractor was going to warm up no matter what.

God bless the guy who installed the thermostat. Of course, he torqued the bolts down about four times as hard as necessary. Manufacturers and dealers do that a lot. I think the purpose is to destroy fasteners and make products impossible to work on. It forces you to take your machine to a mechanic, and they hope you’ll use a dealership. Of course, dealerships of all types are notoriously overpriced and dishonest.

I had to use a breaker bar to remove the thermostat. A strong impact driver wouldn’t budge it.

I took the mower out again, and it heated up. Frustrating.

Finally, it occurred to me that I needed to make sure I had checked all the belts. Cars (maybe I’m dating myself here) have belts in the front. I didn’t look at the rear of the tractor’s engine. When I checked, sure enough, there was a bare pulley. The belt driving the water pump and alternator had shredded.

Great news, right? I mean, assuming it didn’t shred because the pump or alternator quit turning. You just pop a new belt in there and go.

Guess what a John Deere belt costs. Guess. Here’s a hint. The same belt from Tractor Supply costs 9 bucks.

Wrong. The John Deere version costs $24, and that’s the cheapo Ebay price. Maybe you can get a better price from your local dealer, but I am trying to avoid all contact with mine, for obvious reasons. “You used a ninety-cent Tractor Supply clevis pin on your mower deck? My boy, you’re playing with fire. You need a set of gold-plated John Deere pins, for the low, low price of three hundred dollars!”

I bought two belts in sizes that were likely to fit, and I sat down to work. I got ready to slip the belt in behind the three pulleys on the rear of the engine. Water pump pulley…no problem. Alternator pulley…no problem. Crankshaft pulley…wait…what?

Yes, the pulley went around the crankshaft, and there was no way to install the belt without removing the shaft from the engine. This meant removing the tractor’s entire upper pan, dropping the deck, taking the bolts out of the pulley (surely installed by the same guy who tried to weld the bolts to the water pump housing), and basically killing maybe 8 hours.

A belt, you understand. I have installed belts in 10 minutes.

I should also add that the alternator bolts were just as hard to move as the water pump bolts. You really need 300 foot-pounds of torque to hold a tiny bracket that secures an alternator.

I Googled some more, and I saw that someone out there had used a linked belt. This is a belt made from links that can be added and removed. You can make it as long or as short as you want. One of the big pluses is that if you can’t install a continuous belt because of obstacles, a linked belt can be threaded in without problems.

Guess who had a linked belt on his drill press until about an hour ago?

A long time ago, I put a linked belt on the drill press because the old belt had a flat place in it. It went “whump whump whump” all the time. The linked belt didn’t do that, but it was stiffer and generally not as smooth as a normal belt. I have been planning to take it off for quite a while. Today turned out to be the day.

About half an hour after I sat down to work, I had a running mower. The alternator and water pump turned. I didn’t see any problems. Maybe it’s fixed.

I have the operator and service manuals for the John Deere 430. I should be able to handle anything, right? Well…guess what they say about changing the belt? Here are the instructions: “remove fan/alternator belt.”

I’m not kidding. And here’s the weird part: the fan is on the other end of the motor. The alternator belt isn’t connected to it.

John Deere, like Apple, is a religion. That’s why John Deere is able to charge people so much for parts. Reason doesn’t factor into it. Whenever you use anything not made by John Deere, someone will fuss. I saw some codger on the web warning that using non-John-Deere belts would cause a catastrophe. He didn’t say why, of course, because he had no basis for his warning. It was just doctrine.

People are using linked belts on all sorts of expensive industrial machines all over the world. Maybe they need to switch to John Deere before it’s too late.

Here’s the funny thing: John Deere doesn’t make John Deere stuff. I’m sure they make some of it, but they didn’t make your tractor, unless you bought a huge one. America stopped producing tractors below 100 horsepower decades ago. If you worship at the John Deere altar, you’re really worshiping Yanmar or some other foreign company (which probably doesn’t overcharge for parts).

I hope this belt works out. I see no reason why it shouldn’t, except that it may be a little too fat. The original belt is 1/2″ thick, and I used a 1/2″ linked belt. Maybe I should eventually try a thinner one. We’ll see. I mean, if the pulleys turn, it’s working, right?

What’s the worst-case scenario? Maybe the belt will come off. Oh, boy. Then I’d have to spend half an hour putting a smaller one on. Yeah, that would learn me.

I hate bad engineering. I really hate it. End users are people. It’s not right to put these little time bombs in the products we pay for.

I better try to mow the yard before it gets dark. Here goes nothing.

I haven’t had problems like this with the Kubota. I am going to ask around if John Deere products are generally a pain to work on and buy parts for. I can’t see myself buying another one after this.

4 Responses to “John Not-so-Dear”

  1. Aaron's cc: Says:

    The 2 hours expanding to 10 coefficient is expressed in rhyming Yiddish: A mensch tracht und G-tt lacht. A man plans and G-d laughs.

  2. Ed Bonderenka Says:

    Good work.
    Anytime heat and charge fails, it’s a belt.
    My secondary religion involves the adulation of linked belts.

  3. Steve H. Says:

    Aaron, I don’t think God was in on this job.

    Ed, more fun has ensued. I had to pull the 300-pound deck out to retrieve a bolt I dropped, and when it came out, the muffler was resting on it. There was no clamp, what appeared to be the mounts were broken, and someone had cut a rectangular hole in the side of it with a Dremel or some such.

    I ran the tractor without the muffler to put it indoors, and it sounded the same as always. Apparently, I have been listening to straight exhaust since I bought the tractor. I have always used hearing protection, and now I see why I needed it. It appears that the muffler was just sitting in the tractor, held up by the frame and so on, while gas blew right by it.

    New muffler (a can with two pipes): $256. Probable cost of manufacture: $15. And they OFTEN break, so a John Deere muffler is not the answer.

    I can get a muffler for a big farm tractor for something like $30, so I can’t help thinking the Deere people are not working hard to keep prices reasonable.

    A guy on a forum replaced his 430 muffler with a cheap automobile resonator. He cut a hole in his left side cover and ran the resonator through it. I am looking into this solution. I don’t care if it’s not optimal, although it should work fine. Obviously, if I can deal with running the machine with no muffler, I can deal with a muffler that isn’t perfect.

    I’m looking into new Kubota lawn tractors. Also their smallest sub-compact. I don’t know if they’re any less trouble, but they can’t be worse, and I could get a pretty long warranty.

    Maybe you can tell me why someone would cut a hole in the side of a $256 muffler.

  4. Steve H. Says:

    I now think the rectangular hole in the muffler may have been made when a support tore off.