Removing my Root of Bitterness

June 18th, 2019

Now if I can Just Get it to Cast Itself into the Sea

God has given me another productive day. The trick is to pray, curse your problems, and bless your efforts, in the name of Jesus Christ, BEFORE the problems pop up.

I’ve been working on three stubborn stumps in my front yard. I got one out this weekend, and then yesterday, I went after another one, and I got a bonus. I located a huge rock near a stump, and I managed to get it out of the ground and move it out of the area. I also succeeded in removing the second stump.

Today I went after the third stump. I prayed for help. I spoke the Lord’s opposition to the difficulty of removing it, and I spoke his help to me. After maybe 90 minutes’ work with the subsoiler, drill, sawzall, and Root Assassin, the stump surprised me by surrendering suddenly. It popped out of the ground for no obvious reason.

Here it is. I may have it bronzed.

I bent the tabs that connect the subsoiler to my hitch. I don’t know how I did that. My tractor is not big, so you would think it wouldn’t be able to bend what appears to be 7/16″ plate. I don’t care, however, because the subsoiler still works, and even if it didn’t, the amount I paid for it is a lot lower than the cost of having people come in and remove stumps and rocks. I don’t care if I break three of these a year.

Now there are no stumps in the area where I was working, and a big rock which would have caused problems is gone. I have three little blackberry plants ready to go in the ground. I just have to get more soil. When I began this project, I didn’t know I’d have four huge holes to fill.

I’m wondering if I should put clay or some kind of waterproof material in the bottoms of the holes, to retain water. The dirt here drains way too fast.

The Internet, which never lies, says blackberry roots don’t go deeper than 10″. I could put pieces of tarp down about 15″ and then put soil and plants over them. I wonder if anyone has tried this.

I also finished sewing my second knife sheath. I bought a Lionsteel M4 with olive wood handles, and the sheath that came with it wasn’t right for my jeans. This sheath was harder to sew than the first one. I don’t know why. Anyway, here’s a photo.

I still have to finish up the edges. Right now, the sheath is drying. I wet it down and molded it around the knife’s handle so it would hold the knife in place without a strap. I may have to add a strap later, though. That’s okay. The stitching is not great, and I may redo it. If I do that, I’ll have a good opportunity to add a strap with a snap.

I sharpened several knives. I bought a Cold Steel Swift with CTS-XHP steel. Cold Steel doesn’t use CTS-XHP any more because they can’t get a reliable supply, so it’s getting hard to find these knives. I found one on Ebay for something like $20 below the street price, so I had to buy it. Yesterday, I used it to trim a piece of leather, and it went dull right away. I had to do something.

My understanding is that manufacturers supply defective edges on knives. They sharpen them with belts, and they do it too quickly, softening the steel on the edges. This gives you a very sharp knife which gets dull fast. I think this is what happened to the Swift. Cutting the leather shouldn’t have affected it at all.

I got out my diamond hones and a weird ceramic hone, and I touched it up. Did I get rid of the soft steel? I don’t know. I’ll keep using it. If it gets dull fast, I’ll know the answer.

It’s so sharp now, it’s creepy. The fact that it sharpened up so fast may indicate that the edge is still soft.

The Swift is a very, very nice knife, but it’s an assisted-opening design. You open it part of the way with a little button on the blade, and then a spring slams it open the rest of the way. I don’t like that. I can open a knife just fine by flicking my wrist. Using a spring seems dangerous.

The whole point of buying a steel like CTS-XHP is to avoid frequent sharpening, so I hope the knife isn’t a dud. I have a Gerber Gator II with cheap steel, and it’s a great knife, but for the fast dulling. I paid $15 for it. If I’m going to get cheap-steel performance, I might as well pay cheap-steel prices. The Gator II is indestructible, and it has a very comfortable handle.

I also sharpened my Entrek sheath knife. I have seen the way Ray Ennis sharpens these knives when he makes them, and I don’t think it’s their best feature. Apart from the heating issue, the knife, as it came from the factory, didn’t seem to want to bite into things.

I have DMT diamond stones, but I didn’t use them. I like kitchen-style hones. I have them in two diamond grits, plus the ceramic one and two steels. They seem to work just as well as stones, and they’re easier to use. Also, you don’t have to use liquid.

On top of all this, got a lot of business done. Leases for rental properties and so on. And I stocked up on groceries. Breakfast was sub-optimal this morning because I was running low on things. I had three fried eggs with cheddar cheese, plus whole wheat toast. I had been planning to eat fresh vegetables, boiled eggs, pita, and so on.

Tomorrow, the sheath for the Lion Steel knife should be dry, and after a little finishing, I should be able to use it. I want to get used to going out in public with a sheath knife. I feel conspicuous, but open carry is 100% legal, and I prefer sheath knives to folding knives.

Time to shower up and spend time with the birds. Hope your day was as good as mine.

4 Responses to “Removing my Root of Bitterness”

  1. Ruth H Says:

    Don’t put clay in the hole, the roots of the plants will rot if water is left in what would become their flower pot. I don’t know what the Master Gardeners or extension agent would say in that area. In ours, we were taught not to put a different soil in as the plants when planted need to be in what their roots will be growing into. I have to admit I have sometimes added a mixture of the beach sand our peninsula is and potting soil. I have also removed plants which had never grown beyond the potting soil they had been in originally. Just my advice, take it for what it may be worth.
    And those berry plants sometimes get very aggressive.

  2. JOHN A BOWEN Says:

    I have a Cold Steel Hold Out 3 in XHP that held an edge quite a while out of box, then sharpened up like an absolute dream and has held the edge quite well since. From what I’ve seen, easy sharpening is common to the steel, and mine came up to a very keen edge as well. That said, it’s also “conventional wisdom” (a term I hate almost as much as “knife community”) that most factory edges are burnt enough from dry belt sharpening that they require three full re-sharpenings to remove enough soft steel that they hold an edge properly. This usually refers to fairly aggressive sharpening, such as a reprofile with full 140-4300 grit progression plus strop that I use on all my new knives (as I am a gigantic sharpening nerd with a guided system that I enjoy using immensely) followed by reasonable re-sharpenings starting at about 600 grit and progressing through the polishing stages.

    M390, 440C and XHP are all very fine grained steels, so even at proper hardness they should re-sharpen very easily and come to edges that some see as “scary sharp” and nutcases like me consider “adequate”.

    If you don’t already have a good strop, you should get one and COMPLETELY IGNORE THE EXISTENCE OF BLOCK STROPPING COMPOUNDS. I cannot emphasize that enough. Get an unloaded strop and load it with 5 carat per ounce 1 micron diamond spray, let it dry overnight and you will have a strop that actually works.

    You have plenty of leather and wood lying around, so you could save some cash and build your own. I make my own balsa wood strops but a whole lot of people prefer leather. Amazon has that diamond spray for around $20 for a 2 ounce bottle, which should last for years. SharpeningDepot is the brand. They also sell a heavy concentration spray containing CBN, which I haven’t tried, but will eventually.

    Strops that work are amazing edge finishing and touchup tools.

  3. Steve H. Says:

    Ruth, I appreciate the info. I will have to contact the extension people today.

    John, thanks for the help. This week I made a strop from cowhide and a piece of walnut. I loaded it with fine green chromium compound from Formax. Didn’t know anything about the diamond stuff.

    I’m not worried. I can always have more than one strop.

    I wonder why people don’t use razor strops. Easier than a piece of wood.

    I don’t know how CBN works on strops, but it makes unbelievable bench grinder wheels.

  4. JOHN A BOWEN Says:

    From what I’ve read, a razor strop is designed to work best on straight razors at certain fairly low hardness levels. Properly used, it will stress the steel at the edge into a peak which has a short lifespan, less than 24 hours usually.

    Whups, we’ve reached the limits of my incredibly limited knowledge of razor strops! And I’m not even certain of that, as I’ve never tested it. I don’t have the physical coordination to free hand sharpen, I’d probably take my fool head right off trying to shave with a straight razor.