BAM

January 4th, 2011

I Made It

I finally got my guitar body repaired. Arrgh.

To summarize the mess so far, I made three pairs of bookmatched walnut boards, and I glued them together like a sandwich to make a Telecaster body with a glue line down the middle. Then I shaped it into a Telecaster body, and I routed the neck pocket. In the process, I used the wrong thing (weak clamps) to secure the router templates, and I ended up with an extra-large pocket. I then had to make bookmatched walnut inlays about 0.7″ thick to fill the pocket so I could rout it again.

When I made the basic body shape, I gouged the side of the guitar at the head end, where the strap pin would be. Because this guitar will have a clear finish, I had to fix the gouge, and I could not do what Fender does. I could not use Bondo. I decided to make a maple inlay, rout a cavity around the gouge, and stick the inlay in it.

Today I made the inlay and installed it.

I found a reasonably nice piece of maple, sawed it open on the band saw, and then shaped and jointed it (on the milling machine) so the bookmatched grain on each piece would be at about a 15° angle to the grain on the other piece. This looks better than merely reflecting the patterns. I glued it together using Titebond III, and when it was solid, I face-jointed it on the mill.

After that, I had to use the table saw to cut a piece of acrylic, and I turned that into a router template by cutting it on the mill, using the DRO to get a precise rectangle (which I screwed up because of addition and subtraction errors).

When I finally had what I thought was a good template, I stuck it on a piece of scrap and tried to cut a cavity with it, and danged if the router bit didn’t jump and eat one of the corners of the template. I hadn’t realized I needed room for the bit to completely exit the wood on each pass.

When it came time to stick the template (still usable) on the guitar, I realized I was an idiot for making a bookmatched inlay, because it had a glue line which had to match the one on the guitar to within a few thousandths. Somehow, I made it work. I routed the hole, smoothed it with a file, and checked the inlay. It fit like it grew there, and the corner which was screwed up by the damaged template was clear of the guitar, where it would be carved off later.

I used an inlay kit to make the inlay and hole. This is an amazing set of tools. If I described how it works, you would not understand, but if you saw it in action, you would get it. Basically, you stick a set of bushings over a 1/8″ bit, and you center everything precisely on the router, and you make a rout for the cavity and a rout around the inlay. By removing one of the bushings, you adjust the router so the same template that made an inlay will make a hole that fits it perfectly.

I pounded the inlay into the hole, and it worked, so I pulled it out, applied Titebond III, pounded it back in, and applied a [probably superfluous] clamp. Then I sat down and hyperventilated for 20 minutes.

Not really. But the whole time I was doing this, I was waiting to make another impossible-to-predict mistake and ruin the whole project. I felt like I was running on a frozen pond in buttered shoes with a bottle of nitroglycerin in each hand.

For me, using a router is like walking in a minefield. Things are going fine, and then BAM, your project is sawdust. Preparation helps, but without experience, you are going to do stupid things you can’t anticipate.

Tomorrow, I hope to rout off the excess inlay material and then use a roundover bit to go around the edge of the entire guitar body. After some sanding.

Man, I should have made a solid-color guitar. I could have made ten of them by now.

Soon the neck and hardware will arrive. I’ll have to finish the bridge I’m making and order a Bigsby. I’ll have to grit my teeth and try to apply a finish. That will be harder than anything I’ve done yet. Paint hates me. It sits in the can plotting against me. It thinks of ways to run, or to fail to mix properly, or to make orange peel, or to just explode. Paint can do things to me that it can’t do to anyone else.

I have no problems with house paint. I can paint an apartment in four hours. I used to do that. But anything requiring a quality finish…scary.

Sometimes when I wonder how I will get this thing done, I think back to getting my physics degree. I had gotten Fs in high school math, and I didn’t really know algebra. Somehow, I did it. If I can do that, I ought to be able to make a guitar out of a cigar box and a bag of wet newspapers.

Sometimes you have to keep plowing forward, assuming the answers will come later.

I’m not thinking about Telecasters any more tonight. This was a good day. I am entitled to rest.

12 Responses to “BAM”

  1. Jim Says:

    You’re applying a clear polyurethane, I presume? Go on down to Horror Freight and get a small airbrush.

    If you don’t have a water-seperator in your compressor lineup, they sell a small one for $5, but you’ll have to spend an additional $10+ on various NPT fittings, in order to connect it.

    Practice on some scrap veneer or plywood, till you get it right.

    Conversely, if you’re goint to use a brush, go invest in a Purdy 1″ brush. Find the genuine China Bristle item, not the “for all paints” nylon variety.

    Buy the exact solvent reccomended on your can of finish. Mineral spirits, or laquer thinner, whatever. Buy what it says to use.

    Again, practice on some scrap, till you’re confident in your technique.

    Be patient with the finish. Let it dry a full day between coats. It’ll sand without gumming up then, and sand more evenly, and without “waves” in the finish. Use a good rubber sanding block. Firm enough to sand evenly, soft enough to not sand “flats” on your various shapes.

    Go lightly with both sanding and painting. Thin coats are best.

    If you don’t have a good stainless steel brush-cleaning brush, Lowe’s sells ’em. Keep the cover your paintbrush comes in, and put the brush back in it after cleaning. Hang in by the nailhole in the handle, and it’ll dry in the right shape.

    No reason that you can’t outdo a factory finish. Budget a week to work with, and you won’t feel so rushed to “finish” your finish.

    Conversly, you can do hand rubbed Tung oil. It’s easy to get a stunning finish that way, but I have absolutely no idea if that’s suitable to a musical instrument or not.

    Jim
    Sunk New Dawn
    Galveston, TX

    P.S. Kindly post a few photos of your project “so far”? I know I’d not be alone in wanting to track the progress on this one!

  2. greg zywicki Says:

    Is a wipe-on polyurethane and option? I haven’t looked into them in a while, so I don’t know if you can do that with a gloss coat.
    ..
    I do know that you can never really get the results at home that you can get with a paint booth. The dust level is orders of magnitude higher.

    MORE – here’s a really good discussion. I never thought of thinning the stuff. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/how-smooth-out-polyurethane-finish-6750/

    Ed B – you’re probably a better source for info – what do you think?

  3. aelfheld Says:

    There’s a scene in It Might Get Loud where Jack White does just about that.

  4. aelfheld Says:

    ‘[M]ake a guitar out of a cigar box and a bag of wet newspapers’, I meant to say.

  5. Steve H. Says:

    This thing will be finished in nitrocellulose lacquer, with either shellac or epoxy under it. Poly is not for me. The first time you ding it up, you’ve wrecked the guitar. It can’t be repaired the way nitro can.

  6. greg zywicki Says:

    There you go then. Never used that. Is it water and alcohol proof? You going to french-polish it?

  7. greg zywicki Says:

    Oops – no you won’t be, because that’s shellac. Sorry.

  8. Heather Says:

    Why no pictures?

  9. Charlie Bravo Says:

    Steve, all finishes that involve lacquering or airbrushing -or even the most humble paint- will age and damage at some point. In my experience, which is basically with furniture and built-in pieces, polishing it with an oil based solution will give it a great look and the wood will show perfectly. It also avoid the dust problem at the time of finishing the wood parts.
    On the other hand, one can have a guitar that will age with nicks, scratches, and even swatches of paint or varnish missing.
    I am sure it will be a perfect guitar, whichever way you might want to go. It’s a spiritual exercise, above all things.

  10. Charlie Bravo Says:

    I meant perfect. Remember that human perfection is full of imperfections. That’s the perfection I am talking about.

  11. Ed Bonderenka Says:

    I can understand not wanting to do poly but I don’t know why a guitar body done in Poly can’t be repaired.
    Nonetheless a technique I’ve used on small pieces is to brush on as thick as I want.
    Sand and tack rag. Repeat. Then spray from a can. No air compressor (and I have a good spray set-up). YMMV.

  12. Steve H. Says:

    Poly can’t be dissolved with solvents, so you can’t make new poly stick to a repair. The only answer is to strip the entire guitar. With nitro, the new stuff blends into the old.